日本夏2026年 - Day 10 Tanabe to Wakayama
Most of my gear had dried out overnight. I lubed my chain before heading out and was grateful to have downloaded the regional maps onto my GPS the night before. It felt like a luxury—no more guesswork.
The morning was partly cloudy, but the sun was already strong. Puddles from yesterday’s storm still dotted the road. I initially rode out of town in the wrong direction before quickly correcting course.
Soon, I was climbing inland over a series of passes, riding through orchards of Nanko-ume—Japanese apricots. The fruit was ripe, and locals were out harvesting, gathering it from blue nets spread beneath the trees. I couldn’t resist stopping to sample one fresh from the tree.
I stopped at UCC Coffee for a cup and a break. The two women working there were amazed that I had cycled all the way from Tokyo. Today would include three major climbs. At the top of the first, I paused at a small picnic area, admiring a carved wooden owl and frog.
The route had taken me far inland, away from the busy coast. There was almost no traffic—but also no services. I was starting to feel hungry.
Along the Hidaka River, I followed a beautiful one-lane road completely to myself—quiet, green, and serene.
Before the next climb, I grabbed a cold can of Zeppin coffee from a vending machine. Later, on the ascent, I spotted a deer bounding across the road.
At the top, I passed through a long tunnel, then descended quickly. I rode through the small village of Arida and stopped at the tiny roadside Zao Daigongen shrine. I eventually reconnected with Highway 42.
In Hirogawa, I stopped at Tsukasa, a small noodle shop, and had an excellent meal—udon and shrimp tempura, washed down with a cold beer.
Back on Route 42, traffic picked up. I crossed the Hirogawa and then the Arita River, where the final—and biggest—climb of the day awaited. On my elevation profile, it looked like a vertical spike. On the map, the switchbacks twisted like intestines.
The road narrowed to a single lane as I intersected the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. The mountainside was terraced with fruit orchards, and I noticed small rail-like tracks with carts used to transport harvested fruit down the slopes.
The grades hit 10%, and I was drenched in sweat. As I passed a man working in his orchard, he shouted “頑張って!”—a welcome boost.
Others were harvesting as well; I learned the fruit here was sumomo plums.
The final section to the summit was brutally steep. I dropped into my lowest gear, then eventually had to get off and push.
At the top, the descent began immediately—and just as steep. A sign warned that cars were prohibited beyond a certain point, and I had to carefully walk my bike down a narrow dirt path. Even once I reached pavement, the grade was so severe that braking felt unsafe. Walking was the better option.
It was 2 p.m., and a light drizzle had started again.
In Wakayama, I would be meeting my friend Ayano, whom I knew from New York. She now lives in Osaka and was riding down to meet me. Tomorrow, we would begin our journey together across Shikoku.
I returned to Highway 42 and entered the sprawl of Wakayama—pachinko parlors, fast food chains, and heavy traffic. For a brief stretch, I rejoined the Pacific Coast Cycling Route.
I noticed Kimiidera Temple and decided to make the climb—230 steep stone steps up the hillside. At the top stood a massive golden statue of Kannon, the goddess of mercy, installed in 2008.
From there, I rode to the hotel where I would meet Ayano, then found a coin laundry to deal with my filthy clothes. While everything spun in the machines, I sat and edited this report.
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| Nanko-ume—Japanese apricots |
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| Zao Daigongen Shrine in Arida |
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| Kimii-dera Temple in Wakayama |
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| Kimii-dera Temple in Wakayama |
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| Map/Elevation Section |
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