日本夏2026年 - Day 11 Wakayama to Miyoshi (Shikoku)

June 9, 2026
Day 11 Wakayama to Miyoshi (Shikoku) - 101Km
Start 7:50
Finish 6:10
Total Duration 10:20
Moving Time 5:05
Stopped Time 5:15
Ascent 709m
Descent 638m
Tour Total 1205Km

I slept well in Room 625 at the Fuji Hotel in Wakayama.

Ayano arrived around 7:30 p.m., banged up and scraped after a high-speed crash, on top of dealing with two flat tires in the rain. We got her cleaned up and patched together as best we could, then headed out for dinner—an incredible meal at a nearby spot that even included whale sashimi.

We were up at 7 a.m. and at the ferry terminal by 8:05 to catch the 8:25 Nankai ferry to Tokushima. I had taken this same ferry two years ago—though it’s slated to stop operating next year. Ayano wasn’t thrilled that a single ticket with a bike cost ¥5,100—about the same as our hotel room—and that the two of us together paid the equivalent of a car.

After a smooth two-hour crossing to Shikoku, we rode straight to Rindow Bike Shop, a family-run business that’s been operating for over a century. I picked up some chain lube, while Ayano replaced two inner tubes and had her bike checked after the crash. Her bar tape was torn badly, but a bit of electrical tape got it functional again. We stopped by a pharmacy afterward for more bandages.

By then we were starving, so we found a soba shop where I had udon topped with sakura ebi—tiny shrimp—paired with a cold beer. Exactly what I needed.

We rode out of Tokushima through the urban sprawl as a light drizzle began. I threw on my poncho, but the rain soon cleared. Eventually, we reached the Yoshino River and picked up a bike path along the levee, following it for about 20 kilometers.

When we turned inland toward a Konpira shrine I’d marked, things went sideways. At a T-intersection with a larger road, I rolled through without fully stopping—no traffic in sight. A moment later, we were pulled over by a police officer. Just a warning, but a reminder: Japan has recently gotten much stricter about cycling rules.

Ayano, a triathlete on a carbon frame, powered up the next climb, chasing power numbers on Strava that I can only dream of. I followed, grinding my way up—only to discover there was no shrine at the top. My first real routing error of the trip.

We turned around, descended fast, and rolled into the Edo-era village of Udatsu, where we stopped at a michi-no-eki for a refreshing Sudachi cider.

By 5 p.m., we still had 25 kilometers to reach our destination: Isamurou Ryokan in Miyoshi. Ayano challenged me to cover it in an hour—25 km/h, fully loaded, on a busy road.

We pushed hard—and made it in just over an hour.

The ryokan was one of the most charming I’ve ever stayed in. The hosts were incredibly welcoming. Our tatami room was set with coffee, tea, and biscuits, and dinner was a feast: multiple courses featuring fish, shiitake mushrooms, beef, vegetables, and miso soup.

An incredible way to end the day.

Tomorrow, we head into the Iya Valley—and there’s plenty of climbing ahead.

Boarding the Nankai ferry with Ayano

Rindow Bike Shop in Tokushima

Police warning for not coming to a complete stop at an intersection

Dinner at Isamurou Ryokan in Miyoshi

Isamurou Ryokan in Miyoshi

Map/Elevation Profile



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