日本夏2026年 - Day 12 Miyoshi to Kochi
I slept deeply at the Isamurou Ryokan in Miyoshi. As is customary in Japan, everyone bathes before bed, and after dinner I washed up and shaved. There’s something I love about sleeping on a futon laid over tatami—simple, firm, and comfortable. Even the traditional makura pillows, heavy and filled with buckwheat hulls, feel just right.
Our alarms went off at 7:00, and we sat down to a generous breakfast: grilled fish, shiitake mushrooms, eggs, and salad. Before leaving, I checked my bike and noticed my rear brake pads were nearly worn through—something I’d need to deal with soon.
The climbing began immediately out of town. I dropped into my granny gear, but before long I was pushing the bike. We’d studied the route the night before and knew the opening section would be brutal—one stretch hit a 19% grade, forcing both of us to hike-a-bike. The road didn’t help: wet, slick, and littered with debris. Ayano struggled for traction on her light bike with 28mm tires, spinning out on the steeper pitches, while my heavier setup and wider 35mm tires gave me a slight advantage.
With Ayano’s GPS down, we improvised a system: whoever led would stop at every fork or T-intersection so we wouldn’t lose each other.
We passed a group of construction workers repairing the road. They suggested an easier route—one that even included an onsen—but we stuck to our plan and pressed on over the mountain.
Eventually the road deteriorated into something resembling a logging track, thick with mud from recent rains. Riding became impossible, and we turned back. It was already noon—we’d spent three hours covering just 13 kilometers.
After retracing our steps to pavement, we found an alternative route on Google Maps. Within 15 minutes we were rolling again, joining Highway 140. The road improved as we descended into a valley, and signs for the Iya Valley began to appear.
At a T-junction, we turned onto Route 32, following the emerald-green Iya River as it carved through a steep gorge. The road climbed steadily above the water. Along the way, I stopped at the notorious statue of a young boy peeing into the gorge—an amusing sight, and honestly, what boy hasn’t imagined doing the same from a cliff?
We eventually reached the vine bridge, an incredible structure woven from kiwi vines, weighing around five tonnes and rebuilt every three years. Crossing it in cycling cleats over widely spaced planks was… unsettling.
By then Ayano was starving, so we stopped at a nearby stall for dekomawashi—a local specialty of skewered potatoes, fish, and buckwheat dumplings. We also had a hearty bowl of boar udon.
Refueled, we climbed out of the valley and crested the mountain before flying down the other side. Back on Route 32, we aimed for Kochi, still 60 kilometers away. At 3:30 PM, I passed a fully loaded Western cyclist heading in the opposite direction—a brief but familiar moment of recognition.
We crossed into Kochi Prefecture at 3:51, following the Ananai River upstream, which meant more climbing—just as the elevation profile had promised. Along the way, we passed several whitewater rafting operations.
Near the top, we rode through two long tunnels before reaching Nebiki Pass (395 meters) at 5:41 PM. From there, it was a fast, sweeping descent all the way down to sea level.
At the bottom, we stopped at a Lawson for drinks and Kochi’s famous Aisukurin ice cream.
We rolled into Guest House Bonito around 7:00 PM and checked in. Later, we headed out to Tanishi Ochazuke, where we celebrated the day with a spread of food, sake, and beer.
 |
| Breakfast at Isamurou Ryokan in Miyoshi |
 |
| Ayano dealing with the steep first section |
 |
| The peeing boy sculpture |
 |
| Iya Valley Vine bridge |
 |
| Iya Valley Vine bridge |
 |
| Map/Elevation Profile |
Comments
Post a Comment