日本夏2026年 - Day 13 Kochi to Kiyomizushimobun
I slept well at Guesthouse Bonito in Kochi, though I’d slightly overdone it on the sake and beer the night before. At one point during the night, I managed to bang my head on a low beam on the way to the bathroom—a classic hazard for a tall guy like myself.
Our bikes were still caked in mud from yesterday’s ordeal, and we stopped at a 7-Eleven where I grabbed a mocha latte and a chocolate doughnut. Not long after, we pulled into a gas station to properly spray-wash our bikes and start the day fresh.
Leaving Kochi, we wound our way out of the city and picked up Route 33, following the Kusaka River and paralleling the Dosan train line west. After crossing the Yanase River, we reached the stunning Niyodo River—an almost surreal emerald green, and widely considered one of the clearest rivers in Japan.
In Ochi Town, we stopped at the Asō Submersible Bridge, a low concrete crossing designed to be overtopped during floods. With no railings, it allows water and debris to pass over it without causing damage. I’d seen similar bridges along the Shimanto River a couple of years ago—simple, clever engineering shaped by the realities of nature.
While we were there, a taxi full of Western tourists pulled up. Ayano wondered what made this bridge such a draw. Apparently, it served as a visual model for the 2021 animated film Belle.
Continuing along the Niyodo, we made our way toward Nakatsu Gorge. En route, we stopped at Jiyuken Ramen and dove into bowls of miso pork cutlet ramen. I went for the jumbo size and paired it with a frosty mug of Asahi. They also had dekomawashi on the menu—Ayano somehow managed to finish it.
At Nakatsu Gorge, we ran into a motorcyclist we’d met the day before near the vine bridge. The gorge itself was spectacular. A walking path led us toward Uryu Falls, passing crystal-clear pools, rushing rapids, and seven stone statues representing health, luck, and prosperity—we only managed to find six.
Uryu Falls—“Rain Dragon”—was a powerful 20-meter cascade wedged between towering rock walls. A small bridge brought us right up to the spray. The whole place felt alive: water crashing violently over sculpted rock, mist hanging in the air, and a kind of quiet intensity that made it hard to leave.
Afterward, we backtracked and picked up Route 494, following the Doi River upstream. We climbed over a small pass, passing through several long tunnels, then continued along the Kamiyakawa and Ogawa rivers via Route 439. Waterfalls spilled down from the steep, forested slopes all around us.
We stopped at a FamilyMart to refill bottles and grab drinks before the final stretch—a short climb north on Route 194 along the Edagawa River. Eventually, we arrived at Kawamataya Ryokan, a beautiful family-run inn in the tiny village of Kiyomizushimobun. The proprietor was astonished that we’d cycled in—she’d assumed we were on motorcycles.
Our room was a serene tatami space overlooking the river. I replaced my completely worn rear brake pads—I’d started the tour with a fresh set. Japan’s steep mountains are relentless, and I’m now down to my last pair.
Afterward, I soaked in an extremely hot pink bath infused with Epsom salts. Dinner was excellent, and by the time we returned, our futons had been laid out. Tonight, we fall asleep to the sound of the river and the steady chorus of frogs.
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| Spray-washing Ayano's bike |
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| Asō Submersible Bridge in Ochi Town |
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| Bikes parked in front of Jiyuken Ramen |
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| Uryu Falls at Nakatsu Gorge |
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| Ebisuten - God of luck and business prosperity |
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| Kawamataya Ryokan in Kiyomizushimobun |
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| Map/Elevation Profile |
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