日本夏2026年 - Day 14 Kiyomizushimobun to Saijo (UFO Line)
I slept well at Kawamataya Ryokan in Kiyomizushimobun, though the futon and pillow were a bit on the firm side. Light began seeping into the room just after 4:00 AM, and soon after, I could hear other guests stirring. We lingered, becoming the last to wake and the last to leave. In addition to an amazing breakfast spread, the proprietor kindly prepared onigiri for us, and we set off with full water bottles.
It was Day 14—just past the halfway point of the trip. The skies were clear and bright, and the forecast looked promising. The night before, we had studied the route carefully and decided on a change: instead of tackling a narrow, brutally steep one-lane climb, we’d take a wider highway loop up to the first ridgeline.
The morning was beautiful—birds calling, and hydrangeas in full bloom everywhere, their colors a constant companion on this journey. The climb began immediately as we left the village.
On the hairpin turns, I noticed the asphalt was embedded with shredded tire rubber, a clever way to improve traction while recycling old materials.
Ayano surged ahead right from the start, while I settled into a steady rhythm. The road wound upward for miles until I entered a long, 2-kilometer tunnel. Emerging on the other side, I was greeted with sweeping views: a densely forested valley below and a deep green mountain ridge rising beyond.
Ayano had waited near one of the tunnel entrances but soon sped off again as we climbed toward the Yonden Nagasawa Dam and the Nagasawa Reservoir. The ride along the lake was serene, shaded by tall fir trees. While stopping for photos, Ayano was stung by a bee—an unwelcome interruption in an otherwise peaceful stretch.
We continued along the Niyodo River system and paused to admire the massive Otabi Waterfall. Riding Route 40, we passed through snow gates—seasonal barriers with signs noting winter closures from December to March. Beyond them, the road pitched upward into steep switchbacks, with grades reaching 12%.
I climbed slowly, winding my way upward as Ayano disappeared far ahead. A cyclist flew past me descending, calling out a cheerful hello as he went.
The air was clear and bright, and sunlight filtered through the trees, casting shifting patterns of light and shadow—komorebi, a word made famous by the film Perfect Days. Through breaks in the forest, I caught glimpses of the rocky summit of Mount Iwakurosan.
Eventually, I caught up with Ayano, who was sitting roadside enjoying the onigiri from the ryokan. I devoured mine just as quickly, and we pressed on.
Further up, we reached an intersection with another small highway. It was 1:00 PM, and we were still 7 kilometers from the top.
We stopped at the elegant Shirasa Mountain Lodge and visited the Yama Café, where I had a slice of cheesecake and a Kayanomori hazy IPA. A local remarked to Ayano how lucky we were—the weather was exceptionally clear. After the earlier rain and her crash, we didn’t take that for granted. In the distance, we could see Shikoku’s highest and most sacred peak, Mount Ishizuchi, rising above the surrounding ranges.
The climb continued. Near the top, I met a Japanese bikepacker riding a circuit through the mountains, staying in huts along the way.
As we gained elevation, the landscape began to change. The tall firs gave way to low deciduous growth—azaleas, maples, Japanese andromeda, and rowan. Soon I was above most of the surrounding peaks, with only Mount Ishizuchi towering higher.
At 2:30 PM, I reached the summit. High-altitude meadows stretched out before me, covered in olive-colored sasa (broadleaf bamboo grass), their low profile revealing the folded contours of the mountains.
The descent began abruptly—steep, winding, and technical, with tight curves and oncoming traffic demanding full attention. My new brake pads proved invaluable. Ayano raced ahead, while I descended more cautiously, eventually dropping back under the cover of fir trees.
I pushed through the final switchbacks and rejoined Ayano at the junction with Highway 194 along the Tani River. Down at lower elevations, the air had turned hot and heavy. We stopped at a FamilyMart to cool off and refill our bottles before continuing on to Yunotani Onsen, where we’d spend the night.
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| Breakfast at Kawamataya Ryokan in Kiyomizushimobun |
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| Crazy Switchback curves |
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| Restroom up ahead |
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| Light and shadow—komorebi on the roadway |
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| Views from near the top |
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| UFO Line poster |
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| Views from up on top |
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| The UFO Line |
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| Map/Elevation Profile |
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