日本夏2026年

June 13, 2026

Day 15 Saijo to Imabari to - 99Km

Start 8:49

Finish 7:19

Total Duration 10:30

Moving Time 4:51

Stopped Time 5:39

Ascent 940m

Descent 927m

Tour Total 1589Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/390136489

After dinner and a bath, I slept well at Yunotani Onsen in Saijo—though, once again, I’d had a bit too much sake. The futon and pillow were softer than the previous night, and thankfully the window wasn’t aligned with where I was sleeping, so the 4:00 AM light didn’t wake me.

My feet were getting a bit rough, so I applied some ointment and pulled on a fresh pair of socks. The cut on my right elbow had reopened—another small reminder of the wear and tear of the road.

I’d now completed a full rotation of my cycling kit, meaning it was time to repeat… and definitely time to do laundry. Ayano, on the other hand, washed her kit every single night. I’m sure she thinks I’m a complete barbarian.

Breakfast was excellent—orange juice, coffee, and a beautifully prepared spread. The onsen itself reminded me of the Tamozawa Imperial Villa I visited last year in Nikko: the horizontal layout, sliding doors, tatami mats, and enclosed garden gave it a similar feel, though less refined.

We checked the forecast—hot—and topped off our tires before heading out.

Not long after leaving, we stopped at Hio Hachimangu Shrine. Ayano explained the tengu—legendary winged spirits and protectors of the mountains in Japanese folklore. Like many shrines, it sold charms and amulets, and I picked up a small tengu figurine.

Back on Route 11, two motorcyclists slowed beside us. The only word I caught was “ramen.” Then it clicked—they were the construction workers we’d met three days earlier on that brutal muddy climb. They were out riding for the day and told us their first ramen stop was closed, so they were heading to another. A funny coincidence that they recognized us in passing.

Traffic along Route 11 was heavy, with a narrow shoulder. After about 17 kilometers, the road tilted upward into a climb. Ayano surged ahead, as usual, while I settled into my own pace. After 8 kilometers of climbing, I passed through a long tunnel, and then the descent began. Ayano was waiting for me on the other side. We stopped at a 7-Eleven, where I grabbed a Mount Rainier café latte. I’ve definitely elevated my convenience store coffee game on this trip.

Matsuyama was busy with traffic. Our first stop was 七福神 (Shichifukujin), the same restaurant I’d visited in 2024. I’d misremembered the name in my blog back then, but I knew exactly where it was. I ordered the same meal—an assortment of sashimi, takoyaki, and small side dishes, all washed down with draft beer.

Next, we visited Dogo Onsen, the oldest hot spring in Japan. When I came in 2024, it was covered in scaffolding for renovations, and I could only access the basement bath. This time, we did the Emperor’s tour, visiting the beautifully preserved bathing areas reserved for imperial use. I learned about the white heron (白鷺) legend—how the bird healed its injured leg in the spring’s waters, giving rise to the onsen’s origins thousands of years ago.

Ayano didn’t want to bathe only to put dirty cycling clothes back on—which was fair—so we opted instead for the free foot bath across the street. I also bought a new towel to replace the one I’d gotten two years ago, which had finally worn through.

From there, we headed to Matsuyama Castle. Rather than grinding up the steep approach on our bikes, we took the chairlift. Originally built in 1603, it’s one of the few castles in Japan with its original tenshu still intact. I’d skipped it on my last visit and regretted it—it was well worth the stop.

Then it was on toward Imabari. I had planned an inland route, but with the time already at 3:00 PM and a fixed dinner waiting at the ryokan, we rerouted via Google Maps.

We took Route 196 along the coast—the same road I’d ridden before. It was faster, though busier, with four lanes of traffic. Thankfully, it had a wide shoulder marked with a blue cycling line as part of the Shikoku loop route.

At one point, frustrated with the traffic, I suggested we cut inland for a few “bonus” climbs. That decision slowed us down quickly, and we eventually returned to the coast—but not before catching beautiful views of the sun setting over the scattered islands offshore.

In Imabari, we stopped at Alm for ice cream—Ayano declared she’d earned it. Outside, we noticed a fully loaded bikepacking setup and ended up chatting with two Israeli cyclists who had bought bikes in Korea and were riding from Cape Sata to Cape Soya.

We stayed at Komecho Ryokan, where I’d also stayed two years ago. I vividly remembered hauling my panniers up the steep stairs in slippers to the third floor—some things don’t change. While checking Strava, Ayano pointed out that I’d set a personal record on a segment. I told her it was only because I was riding with her.

Dinner at the ryokan featured sashimi, tempura, and red snapper ara-ni—rich, flavorful, and a local specialty.

Still hungry afterward, we rode to Yakitori Park for grilled chicken. I’d been there before with my friend Peter. Ayano proceeded to order what felt like half the menu, while I added a couple of mega draft beers. The place was packed—and, amusingly, the two Israeli cyclists were there as well.

We finished the evening with a ride around Imabari Castle before returning to the ryokan.

Tomorrow would be our last day riding together.