日本夏2026年 - Day 17 Hiroshima to Yoshika
Freshly cleaned and back in my kit, I rode to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. The Atomic Bomb Dome was instantly recognizable, and seeing it in person was sobering. Nearby, I learned, the T-shaped Aioi Bridge had been the aiming point for the 1945 atomic bomb. From there, I visited the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. The exhibits were visceral and deeply unsettling—difficult to take in, but impossible to ignore.
Leaving the park, I rode across and then out of the city along a busy six-lane boulevard, crossing broad rivers that empty into Hiroshima Bay. I was following a route Justin had ridden last summer, occasionally picking up stretches of bike path. The scenery shifted to industrial outskirts lined with box stores. I stayed near the coast for much of the first half of the ride. The weather was mostly sunny but hazy, with a steady headwind; I kept my arm sleeves on for the sun.
I passed signs for the Miyajima cycling route and caught glimpses of Itsukushima Island just offshore—beautiful and serene in contrast to the heavy industry nearby, including an oil refinery along the coast. Traffic was intense, and the passing trucks made for some tense riding.
I missed a turn toward Kintaikyo Bridge—one of those mistakes that can quietly cost a lot of time. Since Ayano had explained proper cycling etiquette, I’ve been trying to follow the rules carefully: using crosswalks, waiting for signals, making right turns in stages. It’s slow going. At the end of each ride, I’m always struck by how much time is spent simply waiting at lights.
Built in 1673, Kintaikyo Bridge is one of the world’s most impressive wooden arch bridges. I walked it end to end, then stopped nearby for udon and an Arch Pale Ale from a local brewery in Iwakuni.
By 3 PM, I had covered 56 Km and turned inland, following the Nishiki River upstream along Highway 187. Traffic thinned out considerably. At one roadside stop, I found a lineup of nearly twenty vending machines—including one serving ramen. I opted instead for a Calpis melon cream soda—one of my favorites.
The road began to climb—about 300 meters in total—but the grades were manageable. I rode through shaded stretches of forest and bamboo groves. At 4:30 PM, I reached the junction with Route 434, where the real climbing began. A series of tunnels followed, filled with swarming gnats that made for an unpleasant ascent.
At the top of Hōji Pass, I arrived at Irori Sanzoku Nishiki, a lively, “mountain bandit”-themed restaurant set among the trees, known for its lanterns, open hearths, and hearty fare. Unfortunately, it was closed.
From there, I enjoyed a gentle descent into Yoshika and made my way to Muikaichi Spa—an impressive complex with multiple indoor and outdoor baths. I soaked for twenty minutes, recharged my devices, and treated myself to a mechanical foot massage.
Dinner was at Tetsuya: a breaded and fried chicken cutlet paired with a cold beer. Afterwards, I rode to Miroku Park and set up camp among the mosquitoes. After seven nights indoors on beds and futons, I was back in the tent. Despite airing things out in Wakayama, my gear—tent, sleeping bag, inflatable pillow—carried a faint, stubborn funk.
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| Atomic Bomb Dome in Hiroshima |
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| Kintaikyo Bridge in Iwakuni |
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| Roadside vending machine lineup |
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| Dinner at Tetsuya in Yoshika |
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| Map/Elevation Profile |
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