日本夏2026年 - Day 18 Yoshika to Hagi
I continued along Route 187, following the Takatsu River. After a short climb and tunnel, I descended along the water, the road quiet and shaded.
In the small town of Shimane, I was already hungry, but the michi no eki was closed, so I pushed on. I turned onto Route 3, tracing the Fukugawa River upstream, then onto Route 226. At an intersection, I stopped at a vending machine for a can of Georgia Golden Drip coffee before the next climb.
This marked the start of the ascent up Mt. Aono. On a steep pitch, my chain suddenly snapped—or so I thought. Fortunately, it was just a quick link that had come undone, an easy fix. As I climbed, I spotted two snakes: one bright green and very much alive, the other dead on the roadside. They seem to bask on the warm asphalt.
The climb wound through tall cedar and fir forests, past an active logging site. After a final tunnel, I descended into Tsuwano.
My first stop was Taikodani Inari Shrine. At the entrance, I purchased a small offering set: dried bread, a candle, and matches. Inside the shrine grounds, I lit the candle and placed it among the others, then offered the bread at the altar after the customary coin, bow, and clap.
Nearby was the chairlift to the Tsuwano Castle ruins. Japanese chairlifts are not for the faint of heart—especially if you’re not fond of heights. At the top, little remains beyond massive stone walls, but the views were spectacular. It’s hard to imagine how such enormous stones were hauled up such a steep mountain centuries ago. It was challenging enough just getting there by bike, chairlift, and a final hike.
I asked the chairlift operators where to eat, and they recommended Akanegumo near the michi no eki. I was starving and ended up ordering what amounted to two lunches: a bowl of ramen and a pork cutlet set with rice, salad, and a cold draft beer. The friendly staff even let me charge my devices while I ate.
By the time I left, the sun had come out in full force. I applied sunscreen and pulled on my arm sleeves before riding through Tsuwano’s preserved district, especially Tonomachi Street, with its Edo-era architecture. The town is known for its sake, but I opted for ice cream instead. I also passed the Tsuwano Catholic Church, built in 1931 by a German priest.
Leaving town meant more climbing. I followed Route 13, the Tsuwabuki Kaido, along the Meika River, heading west toward Hagi on the Sea of Japan. A roadside sign read 30°C (86°F), and it felt every bit that hot on the climb. A cool tunnel near the summit was a welcome relief.
At 3:39 PM, I reached the top of the pass and crossed into Yamaguchi Prefecture—my final prefecture on Honshu. From there, I began noticing pavement markings for Hagi. Along the way, I passed a fully loaded bikepacker heading in the opposite direction. At an intersection, I stopped for two cold lemonades from a vending machine.
Now on Route 315, I rode through a landscape of rice paddies. At one, I watched a large agricultural drone methodically tending the fields.
In Hagi, I hurried to the castle ruins just before closing. The attendant waved me in without charge. While using the restroom, I noticed an electrical outlet—and realized the grounds would likely remain accessible after hours.
I explored the castle grounds, walking along the outer walls and moats, then rode through the nearby Hagi Stone Sculpture Park. Out on the coast, I watched a stunning sunset over the Sea of Japan.
A plan began to take shape. I rode to a 7-Eleven for supplies, then returned to the castle ruins to charge my devices. While they powered up, I edited this entry. Tonight, I’ll camp in the sculpture park by the beach.
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