日本夏2026年

June 17, 2026

Day 19 Hagi to Kitakyushu (Kyushu) - 128Km

Start 6:19

Finish 7:12

Total Duration 12:53

Moving Time 7:39

Stopped Time 5:14

Ascent 1222m

Descent 1198m

Tour Total 2048Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/391118643

My plan last night worked out perfectly. After setting up my tent, I sat beside a sculpture near the beach and looked up at the night sky. The new moon, Venus, and Jupiter put on a brilliant display—it was absolutely splendid. I slept deeply, earplugs in to keep the crows at bay. Unfortunately, I had misplaced my eye mask, but I still managed to rest well. I packed up early, before most people arrived in the park, aside from an older gentleman who quietly went through his morning stretches nearby.

I rode to a 7-Eleven for a chocolate doughnut and a mocha latte. The morning was partly cloudy and windy. As soon as I rejoined the route, the climbing began—exactly why I had chosen to stop in Hagi the night before. At the top, there was a michi no eki, but it was closed. I passed through a tunnel and enjoyed a brief descent, though traffic on the highway was heavy.

At a fork, I took Route 32, which was quieter, but the climbing resumed almost immediately. I put on a Japanese lesson and settled into the rhythm of the ascent. At the crest, I crossed into Mine. Along the roadside, I noticed a small torii gate adorned with a beautiful shimenawa and decided to explore. A steep path—beginning with concrete steps and turning to dirt—led to a modest memorial at the top. When I returned, a woman with a camera was standing by my bike. We chatted for a while; she was visiting from Tokyo and asked if she could take my photo.

The climbing continued until the landscape opened dramatically onto the Akiyoshidai Plateau. Rolling green fields stretched in all directions, dotted with striking white limestone formations. It reminded me of Kyrgyzstan—wild, open, and otherworldly. Formed from an ancient coral reef some 350 million years ago, Akiyoshidai is Japan’s largest karst plateau.

From there, I rode to Akiyoshido Cave, the largest and longest cave in Japan. The entrance was impressive, with a steady stream flowing out. Inside were vast chambers and formations named for what they resembled—Buddhas, kings, dragons, fish. I spotted a bat, but no fish. Outside, small stalls sold trinkets and ice cream, but the lone restaurant was closed. Hungry, I pushed on toward Mine.

Mine is dominated by massive limestone mining operations run by Ube Industries—towering smokestacks and sprawling industrial complexes. Google Maps led me astray into a dead end, but I eventually found 一寸料理・圭 (“Little Dish Kei”), where I devoured shrimp and vegetable tempura with rice, miso soup, salad, and a draft beer. A friendly customer teased me a bit, and my Japanese held up well enough to keep the conversation going.

After lunch, I attempted to follow a new route, but it refused to load on my phone. With no GPS guidance, I relied on road signs for Shimonoseki along Route 33. Eventually, I rounded a bend and caught a glimpse of the Seto Inland Sea in the distance. At a Lawson, I stopped to recharge my devices and troubleshoot the route. I finally got it working on my phone, though my Wahoo still refused to cooperate.

Google Maps had pushed me onto Route 2—a fast, four-lane road completely unfriendly to bikes. With my phone draining battery and the constant need to wake the screen, it was frustrating. Eventually, I managed to get the GPS functioning again.

I rode through the historic castle town of Chofu, following narrow, winding lanes. By now the sun was out, and I pulled on my arm sleeves. Ahead, across the Kanmon Strait, I could see Kyushu—my third and final island.

At the entrance to the Kanmon pedestrian tunnel, I paid the 20-yen bike toll and took an elevator deep underground. After walking the 780-meter passage beneath the strait, I surfaced in Moji. The Mojiko Retro district featured charming European-style architecture, especially Mojiko Station, modeled after Rome’s Termini Station. I stopped at a craft beer hall for baked curry and a Sakura pilsner.

Moji blends into Kitakyushu, and the urban sprawl felt endless. Rush-hour traffic was heavy, cars lined bumper to bumper. I found myself pacing a city bus, breathing exhaust for what felt like miles. I eventually stopped at a FamilyMart for a grapefruit drink and a break.

As evening approached, I passed through a large green space—Norimatsu Ichigo Park. After one last stop at Lawson for supplies, I entered the park and found a restroom with an outlet to charge my devices while I edited this entry. Later, I discovered a perfect spot to camp among the trees.