日本夏2026年

June 19, 2026

Day 21 Fukuoka to Hirado - 108Km

Start 8:58AM

Finish 6:41PM

Total Duration 9:43

Moving Time 5:53

Stopped Time 3:49

Ascent 999m

Descent 962m

Tour Total 2239Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/391560422

I slept well in Room 321 at the b Hakata hotel in Fukuoka. I woke at 7:00 AM and couldn’t fall back asleep. Rain was forecast for the entire week, but when I pulled back the curtains, it hadn’t started yet. The air, however, was already thick and oppressive—蒸し暑い, as they say in Japanese. My bike was safe in its municipal parking spot (#287), a bargain at just ¥100.

I rode first to Sumiyoshi Shrine, which had been closed the previous evening. Photos weren’t allowed, and while it wasn’t the most elaborate shrine I’ve visited, it was quiet and dignified. From there, I stopped at 7-Eleven for a café latte and a chocolate chunk scone, then rode past Ohori Park, catching glimpses of the castle ruins’ stone walls.

The route zigzagged me out of the city before dropping me onto a bike path alongside a freeway. The rain held off, but the humidity was relentless.

By the time I reached Itoshima, I was already losing time to the constant turns, so I abandoned the smaller roads and committed to Route 202 toward Karatsu. In hindsight, I hadn’t studied this section carefully—there were off-road stretches, including an 800-meter dirt climb I had no intention of tackling. Instead, I stuck to the highway, sharing the road with steady traffic.

By 11:20 AM, I finally reached the Genkai-nada coast. The traffic eased, and I crossed into Saga Prefecture. Just before Karatsu, I rode through the Rainbow Pine Grove, where centuries of coastal winds have twisted the pines into striking, sculptural forms. The forest acts as a natural barrier, protecting farmland from sea and storm.

Entering Karatsu, I spotted the castle rising above the town. Known for its pottery, the town drew me to Gofukumachi Shopping Street, where I picked up a few small souvenirs. I made another route adjustment and stopped at 39 Burger for a cheeseburger and a beer.

Now came the gamble. A ferry departure at 4:07 PM would determine the rest of the day. Miss it, and the next one might not come until morning—if at all. With a series of climbs ahead, I pushed on along Route 33.

On a steep section, my already-troubled drivetrain gave out—snap. The chain broke. I repaired it with a quick link, leaving me with just one spare. I cleaned and lubed it as best I could and kept going, drenched in sweat from the humidity.

At the top, I joined Route 204, enjoyed a descent—and then the rain began. Soon I was climbing again, watching the clock, trying to hold a steady pace. The rain, at first, was almost welcome.

I turned onto Route 217 toward Takashima Island. The rain intensified, making navigation on my phone increasingly difficult. Crossing the Takashima-Hizen Bridge, I entered a remote landscape and began to worry about the ferry.

Then, another problem—my saddle gave way with a sharp crack. The lower rails had failed. It was still rideable, barely, but unstable and unnerving.

I rolled into the small fishing village of Funatozu at 3:50 PM and asked around for the ferry. There was no station—just a simple shelter with handwritten schedules in kanji. The 4:07 departure matched what I could decipher. At 4:10 sharp, the small Funatozu–Mikuriya ferry arrived. Relief.

On board, the air conditioning blasted. Soaked through, I was suddenly freezing. I charged my devices during the short crossing, grateful for the pause.

It was still raining when I disembarked at Mikuriya. Despite the broken saddle and worsening weather, I decided to push on to Hirado rather than navigate directly to Nagasaki, where I knew I could find a replacement.

I followed Route 204 into Nagasaki Prefecture, riding the final 15 kilometers in steady rain. Before the immense Hirado Bridge, I spotted a seafood market, but with no restaurant attached, I crossed the street instead—and stumbled into one of the best meals of the trip: pristine sashimi, grilled mackerel, miso soup, and salad, all paired with a cold draft beer.

When I stepped back outside, the rain had turned torrential. Streets had become rivers, and my socks were instantly soaked as I rode through channels of water. I crossed the orange Hirado Bridge and entered town, where the castle rose on a hill across the water, connected by a graceful arched bridge.

This region has deep historical ties to trade with Korea, China, and early European merchants—Portuguese, Dutch, and English—and I noticed several old church structures, reminders of early Christian communities.

I made my way to Kishotei Hotel, where the staff welcomed me warmly despite my dripping state. They handed me a towel and allowed me to bring my bike inside the reception area. Kishotei is an onsen, with both indoor and outdoor baths. My room, with tatami floors and views of the castle, was beautiful.

I filled the tub with hot water and sank in, finally warm again, and began editing this entry.