日本夏2026年

June 21, 2026

Day 23 Nagasaki to Amakusa - 96Km

Start 8:41

Finish 7:38

Total Duration 10:57

Moving Time 5:31

Stopped Time 5:26

Ascent 1021m

Descent 1018m

Tour Total 2452Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/392075499

I slept well in Room 205 at the S Peria Hotel in Nagasaki. All of my gear was dry, but I could feel the beginnings of saddle sores from my misaligned saddle. I hadn’t used chamois cream in a while—something I was glad I still packed.

I had locked my bike behind the hotel, and while loading up, I noticed how quickly my new brake pads had worn down. The same pads would normally last me over a year back home. Today was sunny, and I knew I’d need sunscreen and arm protection.

My first stop was Dejima, the site of the former Dutch trading post—Japan’s primary point of contact with the outside world during the period of national isolation (1641–1859). It began with Portuguese ships arriving in 1571, but the Dutch eventually monopolized trade, living here for over 200 years. It was described as “a sliver of Europe in Japan,” where goods from across the world flowed in, and Japanese exports like copper flowed out.

From there, I rode through the city, noticing the network of trams, and made my way to the single-pillared torii gate of Sanno Shrine, located near the hypocenter of the August 9, 1945 atomic bomb. I continued to the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum, where I learned that Nagasaki had only been the secondary target—poor visibility had spared Kokura. Riding through the city’s steep, confined valley gave me a deeper sense of how the terrain shaped the destruction.

Back in the city center, I searched for food—specifically champon, a local specialty—but my target restaurant wasn’t open yet. I was in Minamiyamate, an area known for its historic foreign settlements, including Ōura Cathedral. Souvenir shops sold sweets and cakes, but I decided to keep moving and find something along the way.

In Shindaikumachi, I came across Bunjiro, where I had an excellent meal: pork cutlet with udon, rice, salad, and a beer. Refueled, I began climbing out of Nagasaki on Route 34, passing through two tunnels before descending and turning onto Route 251, which would carry me much of the way to Kuchinotsu.

Today marked the summer solstice. The weather was good for now, though rain was expected again tomorrow.

The terrain rolled constantly—climbing, descending—and my drivetrain issues persisted. I repeatedly had to use a stick to force the chain onto the small chainring. It was hot, and I stopped often at vending machines for cold peach juice. On Route 157, I paused at a large michi no eki, where I briefly crossed paths with another touring couple, though we didn’t manage to exchange much.

As I continued, I noticed the massive silhouette of Mount Unzen to the east—an active volcano within Unzen-Amakusa National Park. The surrounding landscape was dramatic: terraced fields supported by large stone walls that resembled castle fortifications.

Eventually, I reached a commercial overlook dotted with ice cream stands before turning onto Route 57. The climb was lined with resort hotels, and a steep descent led into Obama, a geothermal spa town where steam vents seemed to rise from everywhere—even from the storm drains. I had seen something similar in Beppu, but this was on another level. Obama boasts some of the hottest hot springs in Japan, with temperatures reaching 105°C (221°F), and the steam is used for footbaths and even cooking.

I had planned a route to Kumamoto the night before, but it refused to load on both my GPS and phone. So today, I improvised with Google Maps. On the final stretch to Kuchinotsu, I chose to follow the coastline—and I’m glad I did. It was stunning: beaches, crashing waves, rocky outcrops, and small pointed islands. The atmosphere felt relaxed and local. This was easily my favorite day of the three-day western island loop.

I arrived at the Kuchinotsu ferry terminal at 4:15 PM. The next ferry wasn’t until 5:30, so I had time to kill. I looked for food but ended up at a 7-Eleven instead. Nearby stood a large statue of a Nanban-jin—a depiction of a 16th-century Portuguese trader—marking the site where trade with Portugal first began in 1567.

The Shimatetsu Ferry to Oniike cost ¥1000, and during the 30-minute crossing, I was able to charge my devices.

On arrival, I was on Shimoshima Island. Blue chevron cycling markings on the road were a welcome sight. Kumamoto lay 107 kilometers ahead. Following Route 324, I eventually found a good camping spot just outside Amakusa. I rode into town for dinner at おにの家, then stopped at 7-Eleven before returning.

I finished the day sitting on a seawall, editing this entry. Crabs scurried along the rocks below, waves lapped softly against the shore, and a half moon hung quietly overhead through the palm trees.