日本夏2026年 - Day 25 Kumamoto to Saga
I slept well in Room 719 at Hotel TAU in Kumamoto. It was a productive stop—I dried out all my damp gear, did laundry, paid some bills, and ordered a replacement Brooks saddle that should arrive just before I get home.
I woke to steady rain, and the thought of riding out into it was a bit deflating. Typhoon 7 (Mekkhala) was drifting north-northwest east of the Philippines, sending bands of heavy rain across Kyushu.
I retrieved my bike from the parking lot and brought it to the hotel to load up. After suiting up in my poncho, I rolled out of the city. My saddle sores had improved slightly overnight. The new saddle still felt unfamiliar, but at least it wasn’t actively painful like the day before. The shifting, however, was flawless—no more stick shifting through climbs.
I left Kumamoto’s urban sprawl quickly and entered a patchwork of farmland—strawberries, greenhouses, and rows of fruit. I stopped at a 7-Eleven for a café latte and a strawberry doughnut.
The climb up to Oreibyo Daibutsu and Rengein Tanjōji Temple’s inner sanctuary (Okunoin) was long and steep. I arrived just in time to participate in a ritual at the Flying Dragon Bell (Hiryū no Kane), the largest temple bell in the world. Alongside four others, I helped ring it by pulling a heavy rope that swung a massive wooden beam into the bronze surface. At 4.5 meters tall and weighing 37.5 tons, its scale was staggering.
Before the ceremony, I cleansed my hands, face, and hair with zukō—an aromatic powdered incense made from sandalwood, cloves, cinnamon, and other herbs—and placed a wagesa around my neck, symbolizing my role as a temporary disciple. The monk led us through chants and bows, ringing smaller bells before we heaved the great beam together. When it struck, the impact was both violent and deeply resonant. The sound lingered in the air long after.
Afterward, I climbed further to see the large standing Buddha. The five-story pagoda was under renovation, but I was able to step inside and purchase a small bell. Outside the grounds, I stopped for a bowl of udon and an oyaki. They wouldn’t serve me beer since I was riding.
The descent was miserable. Rain poured relentlessly, and my brakes were nearly gone. Several times I had to drag a foot to stop. In Miyama, I ducked into a MOS Burger for a cheeseburger and a Coke, mostly just to get out of the rain. I booked a hotel and recharged my devices.
The rain finally eased on the last stretch into Saga. The terrain flattened, but traffic increased as I passed through commercial sprawl. I rode through Yanagawa, known for its canal network and small boats, then crossed the Chikugo River into Saga Prefecture, followed by another bridge over its western fork. The landscape felt expansive—flat land and wide rivers stretching outward.
Entering Saga, I passed through more roadside development before reaching the city center and riding by the castle ruins. At a park shelter, I replaced my rear brake pads—they had worn down to nothing.
Tonight I’m staying at Saga City Hotel—cheap, a little worn, but full of old-school charm.
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| Battle Between Two Cyclists for Stage Victory, Kumamoto |
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| Flying Dragon, or Hiryu no Kane, the largest temple bell in the world |
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| Oreibyo Daibutsu large Buddha |
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| Yanagawa canal |
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| Map/Elevation Profilw |
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