日本夏2026年 - Day 27 Tachiarai to Shinmoji
By the time I packed up, the rain had eased enough that I started riding without my poncho. My first stop was Lawson, where I picked up a café latte and a baked chocolate bread before setting off.
I took Route 500 to reconnect with my planned route, crossing the Koishiwara River. Before long, the rain returned, and I pulled on my poncho. With the low visibility, I switched on my rear radar/light. I wasn't taking any chances, especially knowing I'd be able to recharge it overnight on the ferry.
I followed Route 322 toward Kama alongside the Koishiwara River. At the summit, I encountered a 3.7-kilometer tunnel. Rather than ride in traffic, I chose the extremely narrow sidewalk on the opposite side of the road. It was protected by a high railing but demanded complete concentration. Looking too far ahead or thinking too much about it made me drift toward either the railing or the tunnel wall. Oncoming trucks and occasional obstructions only added to the challenge. Eventually I found a rhythm, though my left hand was filthy from handling the railing.
The rain finally stopped during the descent. I rolled into the town of Kama, crossed the Onga River, and visited Kurosumi-ji Temple. It was one of the most visually striking temples of the trip—an eclectic Shingon Buddhist temple packed with vibrant, gold-accented statues. A colossal golden image of Fudō Myōō towered over countless smaller figures and enshrined deities, creating an almost overwhelming display.
Afterward, I stopped at a roadside takoyaki stand. The owner couldn't believe I was traveling across Japan by bicycle, and we had a pleasant conversation. Several other customers arrived while I was there, so I complimented him on how popular his stand seemed to be, which made him smile.
Continuing on, I rode through Tagawa, once the heart of the Chikuho Coalfield, which fueled much of Japan's industrial revolution. Today there was little indication of its once-booming industry, and the city felt surprisingly quiet.
After crossing the Kibe River, I began following it upstream toward Kitakyushu. Grass and leaves clung to my sandals and clothing from riding along overgrown sidewalks. One final climb remained: Kibe Pass. At the summit was another long tunnel, but this one featured a wide sidewalk with no railing, making it far less stressful than the morning's crossing.
The descent was soaked. Water streamed down the roadway like shallow rivers, while low clouds clung to the slopes of Mount Nukisan on my right. After another tunnel, signs for Shinmoji began appearing, signaling that I was nearing the ferry terminal where my journey back to Tokyo would begin.
I rode to the terminal to confirm the boarding procedure for bicycles before heading to Hamburg Sun for an excellent lunch.
With nearly seven hours before departure, I decided to ride back into Kitakyushu, a city I had visited just eight days earlier. I cycled around Kokura Castle and explored the downtown streets until the rain returned. In hindsight, I should have left my GPS running to record the extra distance and elevation.
I returned to the ferry terminal several hours early and enjoyed the warm, dry waiting area, where I charged my electronics and worked on this journal. I had picked up a few beers from a nearby 7-Eleven, and as departure time approached, the terminal gradually filled with military personnel. Soon, the enormous ferry eased into the harbor and docked. An udon stand inside the terminal opened just in time for dinner, providing one last hot meal before boarding.
Then, just before departure, the skies unleashed the heaviest rainstorm of the day. I struck up a conversation with two motorcyclists, and we commiserated about the miserable weather while waiting to board.
Loading the ferry was remarkably fast and efficient. Semi-trucks continuously hauled cargo containers into the ship's cavernous hold while buses delivered foot passengers. Two passengers even arrived by taxi with a small dog riding in a baby stroller.
Although departure was slightly delayed, boarding itself went smoothly. I walked my bicycle aboard alongside the two motorcyclists. The vehicle deck was packed tightly with cars, trucks, cargo containers, and military vehicles. After securing my bike, I found my cabin before making my way to the restaurant, where I celebrated the end of my cycling tour with a meal of ramen, teriyaki, and, of course, another beer.
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| Thomas the Tank school bus |
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| Kurosumi-ji Temple, Kama |
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| Kurosumi-ji Temple, Kama |
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| Takoyaki stand in Kama |
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| Hamburg Sun, Shinmoji |
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| Kokura Castle, KitaKyushu |
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| Map/Elevation Profile |
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