日本夏2026年 - Day 6 Irago to Kihoku

June 4, 2026
Day 6 Irago to Kihoku -  95Km
Start 9:12
Finish 6:21
Total Duration 9:09
Moving Time 6:13
Stopped Time 2:56
Ascent 925m
Descent 908m
Tour Total 688Km

 I slept well at the Basho Monument—it turned out to be a perfect place to camp. I was able to dry out all my gear, sit at a table, and finally figure out the Hakone puzzle box. I woke around 5 a.m., swatting at mosquitoes and wondering, once again, how they manage to get inside my tent. The ever-present Japanese crows were already making a racket.

I packed up and rode to the ferry under a gray, clouded sky. The ticket office didn’t open until 7:30, so I used the time to shave and charge my devices. I boarded the 8:10 Isewan Ferry to Toba; the crossing took about an hour.

From the port, I rode first to Meoto Iwa—the “Wedded Rocks.” Normally, they’re bound together by a thick shimenawa rope, but the recent typhoon had snapped it. Nearby stalls sold small braided ropes, and frog statues seemed to be everywhere.

Next, I headed to Ise Jingu, Japan’s most sacred Shinto shrine. I approached it in the wrong order, visiting the Inner Shrine (Naiku) first. Dedicated to the sun goddess Amaterasu, the site has existed for nearly 2,000 years, with its main structures ritually rebuilt every 20 years.

The architecture was strikingly different from what I expected—no bright colors, no ornamentation. Everything was wood, subdued and natural. The thatched roofs were thick and weathered, some with moss and growth on them, blending seamlessly into the surrounding forest. It felt less like a constructed space and more like something that had grown there. Photography was forbidden near the most sacred structures, but even without a camera, the scale was unforgettable—especially the massive, ancient trees.

I wandered down Oharai-machi, lined with Edo-period-style buildings, then doubled back in search of food. I found it in the form of thick, chewy Ise udon, washed down with a local pilsner. At another stand, I had charcoal-grilled fish on a skewer—simple and perfect.

I then rode to the Outer Shrine (Geku). I couldn’t help but notice how many people brought small dogs in strollers—an oddly charming sight. かわいい, indeed.

At both shrines, stalls sold amulets and beautiful calligraphy. I also noticed something new to me: sakaki branches attached to torii gates. These sacred evergreen branches are used in Shinto for purification rituals and offerings, marking spaces where the presence of the kami is especially strong.

Leaving the shrines behind, I crossed the Miyagawa River and headed out of town, skirting the edge of Ise-Shima National Park as I made my way back toward the coast. The landscape turned rural—wide stretches of rice paddies and quiet roads. This marked the beginning of a five-day ride around the Kii Peninsula.

The weather stayed overcast, almost cool enough for a jacket—ideal riding conditions.

At one point, I followed a narrow, single-lane road through dense forest, the kind of stretch that makes you forget everything else. Later, on Highway 38—part of the Pacific Coast Cycling Route—I crested a climb and came across a large troop of monkeys. They seemed bigger than the ones I’d seen in Shikoku.

After another long climb, I stopped at Ryusho Temple, completely alone. A stone staircase led up to a solitary structure tucked deep in the forest—quiet, still, and removed from everything.

On the outskirts of town, I stopped at a FamilyMart for an onigiri and a cold drink, then continued along the stunning, emerald-colored Ouchiyama River as it wound toward the final pass before the Pacific.

Rain began to fall again, light at first, then steady enough to pull on my poncho. After cresting the pass, I flew down a steep descent into Kihoku.

I found a park with a gazebo for the night and stopped at a grocery store for supplies. The paving stones under the gazebo were slick, and I took my second fall of the trip—this time on my right elbow. Nothing serious, but my first aid kit is earning its keep.

Another day down.

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