日本夏2026年

June 07, 2026

June 7, 2026

Day 9 Kushimoto to - Tanabe 86Km

Start 7:17 AM

Finish 3:56 PM

Total Duration 8:39

Moving Time 5:05

Stopped Time 3:34

Ascent 1018m

Descent 979m

Tour Total 1010Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/388762835

I slept well tucked underneath a concrete structure on Hashigui Beach. I first woke around 5 a.m. to a light drizzle—everything, thankfully, still dry. I rolled over and managed another hour of sleep, listening to the soft, steady murmur of the Pacific just beyond.

The morning was slow. I packed up gradually and rode back to the same FamilyMart from the night before for a Craft Boss latte and a slice of chocolate pound cake. I was already suited up—poncho, waterproof socks—knowing it would be a gray, wet day.

The route that I had drawn didn't go around the bottom tip of the peninsula. Easy to miss when planning from the other side of the world. I decided to stay true to the coastline, following the blue chevrons of the Pacific Coast Cycling Route instead.

Even through the rain, the coastline was striking—jagged rocks, scattered offshore islets, waves breaking in white bursts. Traffic was manageable, though many hotels and souvenir shops along the way had for some time been shuttered.

The rain settled into a steady rhythm. Under the poncho, I stayed relatively comfortable—overheating on the climbs, cooling quickly on the descents. By 9 a.m., I had covered about 25 kilometers.

I stopped at a small roadside shrine, stepped through the torii gate, and went through the ritual—offering coins, ringing the bell, bowing, clapping.

Later, I came across another shrine perched dramatically on a cliff above the sea. As I stood there, a man approached. His name was Takato, from Osaka. He’d traveled extensively around Kansai by motorcycle, though today he was exploring by car. We chatted briefly before parting ways.

In Esumi, I stopped at the Michi no Eki Terrace for curry rice and a bowl of miso soup. There was an outlet nearby, so I topped off my devices.

Back on the road, the rain continued. The ocean shifted between deep azure and frothy white, the sound of waves crashing against the rocks a constant backdrop.

At several points, the blue chevrons led me off my planned route and onto quieter roads hugging the coast, helping me avoid long, intimidating tunnels. I followed them whenever I could.

By noon, I had logged about 55 miles. The rain hadn’t let up once. I stopped at another michi-no-eki and spotted a second-floor spot called Bears Rock. I went in for a burger and a beer—more for the shelter than anything else—and used the Wi-Fi to upload photos from previous days.

Stepping back outside was tough. The rain had intensified, and it took real effort to get moving again. I realized I’d left my rear flashing light on the entire time I was inside—always frustrating.

Still, I pushed on.

At 2:44 p.m., I stopped at a Lawson for a peach drink and some nuts and checked the forecast. Severe weather alerts were in effect—thunderstorms and strong winds. Tomorrow looked better.

I made the call to find a hotel in Tanabe. The next stretch would head inland, with significant climbing ahead. Better to recover.

Business Hotel Pearl, near the station, was a bit tricky to find—and not exactly luxurious—but it would do. First order of business: connect to Wi-Fi and load the correct regional maps onto my GPS.

Then I walked to 7-Eleven for supplies, returned, and took a long, hot bath.

Today, out there in the pouring rain, had been brutal.